N Scale Layouts 2×4 – N scale 2 x 4 inch miniature model railroad with two main lines, tunnel, waterfall and river rapids, serving three passenger stations, a small town and a lumber industry.
A great way to get started with model railroading is to build a miniature train set that doesn’t require a lot of space or a large investment of time and money. This small layout can later be used to expand into a larger model railroad if desired; Or you may want to keep it the same and continue to add details and make changes over time. Another cool thing is that you can do it all while sitting down without having to stand or crawl under the surface to do it. This can be a small point-to-point switching train configuration or a loop-to-point or loop-to-loop configuration.
N Scale Layouts 2×4
Below is a step-by-step guide to creating a 24″ x 48″ loop-to-loop N scale miniature train layout with 2 separate main lines, each with its own train, simplified by the lack of spurs or turnouts. done The 2-train action provides more excitement than a single train traveling on an oval, and the lack of rotation reduces the risk of derailment. I did this for my 6 year old grandson and didn’t want him to hide repeatedly if I could avoid it. Sure, the train layout can be made more complicated by adding branches and increasing the area to 30″ x 60″ or even 36″ x 72″, but that will cost more work and more money. It just depends on what you want and what your budget allows. I spent two years setting up a 36″ x 72″ N scale rail. The one I will describe took about a week (about 25 hours of work). Of course, in this case, I had a deadline. His birthday was coming up and I wanted to give it to him as a present.
Small Model Train Layouts & Track Plans In N Scale
The first thing I did was go to my local home improvement store and buy a 24 x 48 inch (2’x4′) pre-cut plywood and a 4’x8′ sheet of extruded foam board that I asked the assistant for. to cut I into four 2’x4′ sections. [I only needed a piece of 2’x4” foam, but I couldn’t get it that way. However, it was cheap, and I could use the extra money for other projects later.]
I later found out that a 2’x4′ would be perfect for a coffee table setting, which would work great for this project, although I didn’t use it in this case. Then I used liquid nails to glue the foam sheet to the plywood.
The next step is to design the model train layout. Choose the subject, location and period you want to portray if you are creating a serious sequence. In this case, I just wanted to at least be able to at least “drop” and “deliver” passengers and cargo from one part of the layout to another. This is part of the educational benefits that children can get from running such a system. Something has to be moved from one place to another.
Beginning Layout, Trying Again
I bought an inexpensive ($99) model train at a local hobby store, so I was able to buy tracks, a power transformer, a train and a few accessories.
Then I sat down in front of the train layout and tried to figure out how I wanted to place the track. Since this was a fairly simple setup, I didn’t really need to do extensive follow-up planning. I used the Bachmann track (already attached to the court) that came in the kit to place the indented oval on the surface of the (bean-shaped) mockup. I had to use a few extra parts of the track to complete it. I wanted to create a second main line inside the oval, but the standard track pieces you buy at the store had too much radius to fit comfortably. I already had Atlas Flex tracks in my queue that weren’t being used, so I confiscated four sections to make a figure eight inside the outer ellipse as the second main line.
Before installing the flex track on the rail layout surface, and while it was still straight, I had to weld two lengths of flex track together end to end to create each loop of the figure eight. (You’ll need to do this with any flexible track you want to put in a curve or loop because it’s very difficult to wrap the ends around the curve. To do this.)
N Scale Switching Layout Video Series
I then glued the cork road surface to form eight loops, where a flexible track was laid using foam dowels to hold the surface in place until the flower dried.
The flexible track must be connected to the cross track at a 90 degree angle in the middle (by Bachmann), so I pinned it in the middle of the rail arrangement (junction track) where the four truck sections meet.
I then measured the length of flexible track for each loop on site and cut the rails at the appropriate location with rail pliers. Then I installed the flex track, ground it to hold it in place, and added 50% white glue with isopropyl alcohol (wiping alcohol) to attach the adhesive so it’s under the rails. pass After drying, I removed the pins. At the same time, I also glued the outer edge of the oval.
Vintage Marx Mercury Tin Metal O/027 Gauge Electric Train W/cars. Runs, (b 74)
At this point you’ll want to plug in the power and test the track to make sure you don’t need to change anything before hitting the terrain and scenery. You should be able to move a small train of one locomotive and 3 cars back and forth around the entire train layout, starting and stopping without any problems and without derailment. If not, it’s time to troubleshoot to make sure the operation is flawless. Make sure the paths are clear. I usually use Goo-Gone for this step. Then I apply transmission fluid or a dollop of WD-40 to the rails with a clean rag around the rail. This will greatly improve power efficiency. I had some problems with the crossover, but after some tweaking, filing and cleaning everything worked fine.
I ran the wires out of the two sets of rails, wired them under the rails if needed, and placed them on the foam board so they couldn’t be seen through the scene, then ran them through the side of the foam. He was pushed into a corner. Set up two transformers – one to power the inner track and the other to the outer track.
Basic rail layout for this small model rail project using embossed foam on plywood. The tracks are glued and pinned to hold them in place until the flower dries.
Ohio Valley Lines: N Scale Layout
At this point, I recommend covering the tracks with masking tape, so that there is not too much plaster or glue on them. I often skip this step because I think I’ll be careful not to drop anything on the track while watching the scene, but I always wish I hadn’t because cleaning up a track full of gypsum and glue drops is a It’s real pain.
I wanted both trains to go under the tunnel, and I also wanted to have a waterfall and a brook in this model train layout, so I decided to combine the two (kind of) through the mountains that run through the tracks. Then the rapids descend from the top and end in a waterfall to the river below. My final version of this idea probably wasn’t very realistic (having a river at the top of a mountain tunnel above the railroad tracks), but I did it anyway. (Call it poetic license.) I used scraps of extruded foam board to make this tunnel. I glued them on with white glue and held them with foam pins until the glue dried.
For the rest of the ground, I used a combination of small pieces of extruded foam, cut to fit and placed where I wanted the height to be. On top of that, I added small pieces of newspaper and taped them together. Then I put plaster on top of the rolled up newspapers. Immediately irregular terrain and mountainous terrain were formed.
Recent Progress On My Current 2×4 N Scale Layout
For variety, I placed a small piece of irregularly cut foam board inside one of the eight loops to create a flat face that would hold a wooden yard. The lake at the bottom of the waterfall and the creek bed will flow alongside this elevation.
For the river and creek bed, starting at the end of the waterfall, I used an electric foam cutter (tepee).
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